Fashion history

Mariano Fortuny 1871-1949

There is one good reason for everyone who is interested in fashion history to remember that name. One word my loves, Delphos .

The Delphos rope is unique, it has been kept as a piece of art since it has been created , so it has never been “in” and it never can and never will be “out”.
Fortuny used such a technique which made possible to pleat silk in durable way that it is still today stayed a secret. As well as the technique how did he carry out all the great shades of colours.

Mariano Fortuny was born in Granada, the ancient Moorish capital of Spain, in 1871, of a family of Spanish artists. As a boy he had amused himself by dyeing pieces of material different colors. His own textiles were imbued with the same antique quality possessed by the fabrics, mellowed with age, that had surrounded him as a child. The designs on the velvets, brocades, silks and chasubles in his parents’ collection were imprinted upon his imagination many years before he started his own production. After his father’s death, his mother moved the family to Paris, where she organized a small salon for the friends and followers of her late husband, and also encouraged Mariano to start painting. The start of Fortuny’s most creative period started since his move to the Palazzo Pesaro Orfei in 1899.

Mariano Fortuny created some of the most remarkable fabrics and dresses of this century. His pleated silk gowns and velvet cloaks are regarded by collectors and museums around the world as the unique expression and embodiment of a craft at its best. However, he was not a couturier in the usual sense. A painter by training, he adapted the line of his dresses to the natural shape of a woman’s body and sought to develop a type of garment that would not be subject to the whims of fashion. He was vigorously opposed to the restrictive and unnatural fashions of his time and remained aloof from the commercial world which produced them. He wasn’t just a dress and fabric designer, but also a painter, etcher, sculptor, photographer, lighting engineer, set designer, theater director, inventor and architect.

The dress I need to tell to you appeared around 1907 and was called the Delphos robe. It is without a doubt Fortunys most famous creation and eventually became the hallmark of his work. The Delphos robe, which was made of pleated silk and very simply cut, hung loosely from the shoulders and was a revolution for the tightly corseted women of 1907. Still today the dress is highly respected. And when one of the few original ones comes on sale in some auction the prices are as heavenly as the dress is.

Juliet xxx

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